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Plunging into SLR land - Lenses???
Okay, so after much research over the past month and learning a lot by asking questions on different forums...I've come to the conclusion that only an SLR will be able to produce good quality prints for fast action in low light (example indoor hockey games). I will abandon hope of finding a non-SLR camera that can do what I want. In my reading, I've noticed that many people recommend to put priority on the lenses instead of the body. I would prefer an adjustable lens, instead of a fixed prime lens. Something in the range of 75-300mm, and fast (maybe F2.8) Another issue is Image Stabilization. If you're shooting at a fast speed, does IS make much of a difference anyways? I'm interested in hearing recommendations for combinations of SLR cameras and lenses that would give good results for my needs (with approx price ranges), without going to the extreme profesional level and too much $$$. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thanks...

Comments (5)

Twoboysmom wrote:.

Okay, so after much research over the past month and learning a lotby asking questions on different forums...I've come to the conclusionthat only an SLR will be able to produce good quality prints for fastaction in low light (example indoor hockey games). I will abandonhope of finding a non-SLR camera that can do what I want. In myreading, I've noticed that many people recommend to put priority onthe lenses instead of the body. I would prefer an adjustable lens,instead of a fixed prime lens. Something in the range of 75-300mm,and fast (maybe F2.8) Another issue is Image Stabilization. Ifyou're shooting at a fast speed, does IS make much of a differenceanyways? I'm interested in hearing recommendations for combinationsof SLR cameras and lenses that would give good results for my needs(with approx price ranges), without going to the extreme profesionallevel and too much $$$.



If you're looking for an affordable SLR body that can take a higher-end telephoto lens, then these are your choices:.

1. Canon 350D or 400D2. Nikon D40 or D40x3. Pentax K10D.

Image stabilization may help with static subjects, but if you're shooting sports, then it won't really be helpful. You can get IS if you can afford it, but you don't really need it in your circumstance..

In terms of lenses, you can purchase the Canon, Nikon and Pentax fast telephoto lenses:1. Canon EF 70-200/F4.0 L or Canon EF 80-200 F2.82. Nikon AF-S 70-200 F2.83. Pentax DA* 50-135 F2.8.

Unfortunately, these are quite expensive. If you go with Nikon or Canon, and you don't mind third party manufacturers, you may want to investigate the following lenses instead. They're more affordable..

1. Sigma AF 50-150mm f/2.8 EX HSM DC2. Tokina AF 50-135mm f/2.8 AT-X Pro DX.

Note, some people may recommend superzooms, like the 18-135mm or 18-200mm range. Superzooms are typically not fast enough for indoor sports. They are only useful if you need a single lens, and are willing to cope with the compromises that Superzooms have...

Comment #1

Tycfung wrote:.

Twoboysmom wrote:.

Okay, so after much research over the past month and learning a lotby asking questions on different forums...I've come to the conclusionthat only an SLR will be able to produce good quality prints for fastaction in low light (example indoor hockey games). I will abandonhope of finding a non-SLR camera that can do what I want. In myreading, I've noticed that many people recommend to put priority onthe lenses instead of the body. I would prefer an adjustable lens,instead of a fixed prime lens. Something in the range of 75-300mm,and fast (maybe F2.8) Another issue is Image Stabilization. Ifyou're shooting at a fast speed, does IS make much of a differenceanyways? I'm interested in hearing recommendations for combinationsof SLR cameras and lenses that would give good results for my needs(with approx price ranges), without going to the extreme profesionallevel and too much $$$.



If you're looking for an affordable SLR body that can take ahigher-end telephoto lens, then these are your choices:.

1. Canon 350D or 400D2. Nikon D40 or D40x3. Pentax K10D.

You make it sound like these are the *only* choices for consumer DSLR bodies that have high end telephoto lenses. Either it was worded incorrectly, you are misinformed, or these choices are simply your preferences. It would be good to clear this up..

Image stabilization may help with static subjects, but if you'reshooting sports, then it won't really be helpful. You can get IS ifyou can afford it, but you don't really need it in your circumstance..

In terms of lenses, you can purchase the Canon, Nikon and Pentax fasttelephoto lenses:1. Canon EF 70-200/F4.0 L or Canon EF 80-200 F2.82. Nikon AF-S 70-200 F2.83. Pentax DA* 50-135 F2.8.

Unfortunately, these are quite expensive. If you go with Nikon orCanon, and you don't mind third party manufacturers, you may want toinvestigate the following lenses instead. They're more affordable..

1. Sigma AF 50-150mm f/2.8 EX HSM DC2. Tokina AF 50-135mm f/2.8 AT-X Pro DX.

Note, some people may recommend superzooms, like the 18-135mm or18-200mm range. Superzooms are typically not fast enough for indoorsports. They are only useful if you need a single lens, and arewilling to cope with the compromises that Superzooms have..

Tim'Be the change you wish to see in the world.' -Mahatma Gandhihttp://www.flickr.com/photos/timskis6/..

Comment #2

If you're looking to get usable images at hockey games from about mid level seats, most DSLRs will do it with the appropriate, mid grade lense..

If you're looking to get excellent, for-sale images, you will be spending a bundle of money. Pro photographers drop many thousands on setups like this, not because they can, but because it is required..

I'll assume since this is your first DSLR purchase you're going to want acceptable results that are, at least, significantly better than your standard zoom point and shoot camera. If this is the case, pretty much any relatively new DSLR body can accomplish this at ISO1600. You'll have noise, but that is to be expected, and can be worked around in PP after the images are taken..

Fixed focal length zoom lenses are certainly out of your price range, so you'll want a reasonably fast lense at the long end. f/3.5 at 400mm equivalent is not unreasonable and won't cost you a bundle, but you'll still pay over $500 bucks for it..

In a well lit hockey arena, you'll have trouble with the white ice and you'll probably tend to underexpose. This will net you a faster shutter speed, but at ISO1600 considerable noise will result when you add 1-1.3 stops in PP. Consider spot metering to help, but be aware of overexposure on dark uniforms..

Be ready to spend around $1200 for a mid grade zoom with f/3.5 at the long end and an entry level DSLR.Tim'Be the change you wish to see in the world.' -Mahatma Gandhihttp://www.flickr.com/photos/timskis6/..

Comment #3

If you're looking for an affordable SLR body that can take ahigher-end telephoto lens, then these are your choices:.

1. Canon 350D or 400D2. Nikon D40 or D40x3. Pentax K10D.

You make it sound like these are the *only* choices for consumer DSLRbodies that have high end telephoto lenses. Either it was wordedincorrectly, you are misinformed, or these choices are simply yourpreferences. It would be good to clear this up..

You're right. I forgot Sony/Minolta. They have a 70-200mm/2.8, but it's hard to find in stock..

Sigma has a single SLR, and they have a 50-135/2.8 lens for it..

Lastly, there's Olympus. They have a 35-100mm F2.0 and a ED 50-200mm F2.8-3.5. Note that the Olympus has a crop factor of 2.0, as opposed to 1.5 or 1.6 for Nikon, Canon and Pentax...

Comment #4

Timskis6 wrote:.

In a well lit hockey arena, you'll have trouble with the white iceand you'll probably tend to underexpose. This will net you a fastershutter speed, but at ISO1600 considerable noise will result when youadd 1-1.3 stops in PP. Consider spot metering to help, but be awareof overexposure on dark uniforms..

This is why you spot meter on a subject before the event and then shift the camera to manual exposure. Hockey rinks are pretty much uniformly lit and the exposure doesn't change much. That way you avoid the over/under exposure issues and get more usable shots..

Be ready to spend around $1200 for a mid grade zoom with f/3.5 at thelong end and an entry level DSLR..

An Oly e-510 with in body IS and a 50-200mm f2.8-3.5 zoom (35mm equivilent of 100 to 400mm) would not be a bad choice. Although it'll set you back close to $1500. The lens is more expensive than the camera..

Tim'Be the change you wish to see in the world.' -Mahatma Gandhihttp://www.flickr.com/photos/timskis6/.

A member of the rabble in good standing...

Comment #5

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